Superb 135Lc parts...bore up kits,BIG VALVE head.
- Thread starter Mr.Rockies
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Mr.Rockies
New Member
@stroker
Its been nice to have a potential buyer as you,specially on metallurgy either engineer.I amtruely happy and glad.
For my 160cc stuff.I confirm this is not taiwan manufacture.please note.
in my oppinion,to avoid head leak.you must take more attention by using torq wrench.this is very crucial as higher compression mean high to kick over the head and tiny different of torque may cause leak.also a well qualityliquid gasket needed.
for seat valve material,this is the best i could find,this also refering on selling point price.If someone need a higher spec on higher fancy material.there would be no problem at all to start product but remember selling price also important here,as this material is more than enough for road racing requirement.it would be useless if my product could only buyed for several person since technology could be enjoy for mostly 135 riders.
for conrod,i already know the stock rod is basicly use for daily and not set up for high performance.so the enlargement was also hardened treatment before.for best hardened i could find is cryogenic.and all of my product,specially on hard stress area was cryogenic.This far ,works very well.this also add for why i am selling my product higher than other.
For spring valve,i've tested for 14,200 RPM and never float.i have never try on 15.000.but comparing with other spring valve,which look alike similar.almost all brand i've tried float.but not mine.my guarantee is for 14.200 .for higher i should try first.if it could not float up to 15.000 maybe i would sell to motogp rider lol =) as motogp honda engineer confuse to beat desmosedici on 20K rpm so they also make pneumatic valve =)
Anyway,a 14.200 rpm is more than enough for daily road race.i let you know after i try on 15K rpm.i set my tacho as well lol.
Well...We all know that this 135lc basicly design for commuter city bike,and not set for race.so we could just upgrade and never think that this bike could be re born for truely comp bike right? upgrade for over 2 times power from stock would be a very2 good.it would be totally different with a bike wich design and manufacture for race bike from birth or basic blue print.I hope people may be more wise to understanding the differentiation between a race bike and a bike which make to be "race".
Thank you,and best regards.
Mr.Rockies
Its been nice to have a potential buyer as you,specially on metallurgy either engineer.I amtruely happy and glad.
For my 160cc stuff.I confirm this is not taiwan manufacture.please note.
in my oppinion,to avoid head leak.you must take more attention by using torq wrench.this is very crucial as higher compression mean high to kick over the head and tiny different of torque may cause leak.also a well qualityliquid gasket needed.
for seat valve material,this is the best i could find,this also refering on selling point price.If someone need a higher spec on higher fancy material.there would be no problem at all to start product but remember selling price also important here,as this material is more than enough for road racing requirement.it would be useless if my product could only buyed for several person since technology could be enjoy for mostly 135 riders.
for conrod,i already know the stock rod is basicly use for daily and not set up for high performance.so the enlargement was also hardened treatment before.for best hardened i could find is cryogenic.and all of my product,specially on hard stress area was cryogenic.This far ,works very well.this also add for why i am selling my product higher than other.
For spring valve,i've tested for 14,200 RPM and never float.i have never try on 15.000.but comparing with other spring valve,which look alike similar.almost all brand i've tried float.but not mine.my guarantee is for 14.200 .for higher i should try first.if it could not float up to 15.000 maybe i would sell to motogp rider lol =) as motogp honda engineer confuse to beat desmosedici on 20K rpm so they also make pneumatic valve =)
Anyway,a 14.200 rpm is more than enough for daily road race.i let you know after i try on 15K rpm.i set my tacho as well lol.
Well...We all know that this 135lc basicly design for commuter city bike,and not set for race.so we could just upgrade and never think that this bike could be re born for truely comp bike right? upgrade for over 2 times power from stock would be a very2 good.it would be totally different with a bike wich design and manufacture for race bike from birth or basic blue print.I hope people may be more wise to understanding the differentiation between a race bike and a bike which make to be "race".
Thank you,and best regards.
Mr.Rockies
Mr.Rockies
New Member
i add some goods on above you might interesting...
Hi Mr.Rockies, nice to hear your replies too.Mr.Rockies said:
FYI, I've seen more than enough standard conrods giving way on the standard set up, ridden daily.
FYI too, Cryo only relieves stress and more importantly, INCREASE the abrasive wear resistance. Prolly will prevent wear and tear on the small and big eyelets, that's just about it. It will not prevent failure due to the lack of sufficient material. Its effect on low carbon steel/ iron materials such as the conrod, has very minimal effect.
Good to hear that you cryo yr conrods though.. Not much ppl take the effort to do it.
The head leak issue is NOT a problem of insufficient torque. NO AMOUNT OF TORQUE can stop the leak. If its useable on a daily ridden bike, the moment you go for a few hard rounds, it'll leak. I've said, its a fundamental design flaw. And I was referring to the common taiwan made 60mm cylinder + piston kit, might not apply to your kit since you're sure yours' not from Taiwan.
The valve seat material I suggested is not any more expensive than alu bronze. In fact, its much cheaper. Its just a matter of using the correct valve seats for your valve material. It doesn't mean a more expensive material will be better than a cheaper one.
14,200RPM on a steel 25mm inlet valve?? Gurlp. That's VERY impressive. May I ask again, the accuracy of yr tachometer?? Big bored? If that's so, my further salute goes out to you.
FYI, On a stock stroked T135, if you managed to spin it 14,200 REAL RPM, that's a whopping 26.9ms of piston speed!! Its even better than the F1 and MotoGP guys!!!! Those guys are only getting away with 25.5ms piston speeds. You're VERY IMPRESSIVE indeed.
Not only can you sell your springs to MotoGP, you can replace their engineers. F1 too!
FYI, Desmocideci haven't saw 20,000RPM, yet. Or at least haven't got it to work well at 20,000RPM yet. Although I don't discount the possiblities of teams testing it til that RPMs. But most air-valvers are doing 'only' a max of 18,500 +- RPM.
IMHO, commuter bikes can be very reliable race bikes too. If the whole package is designed cohesively. MotoGP bikes are not light years apart in their design compared to the road-going bikes. You might be surprised to see how simple they are. Only with very very well designed and thought out parts — cohesively packaged together.
Cheers and may there be peace. Just giving my 2cents. Take it with a pinch of salt.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
@stroker
No,i dont feel someone disturb my sales...while i am happy to discuss and if i have low side on my product then i will do for perfection.=)
In spring case,This far i use Daytona PAD2000 which i believe it precise count as also use for most racer on my country.while this tachy is not attach on plug wire but from digital programable 24 point of curve tacho output,so in my oppinion this read precise or closest to precise.Yes on alu bronze valve seat.
On the otherside why i am using alu bronze,on my past research on development =) harder valve seat material may cause a litle bit cracking on valveseat mount (stock casting metal) it just can not hold the vibration.while alu bronze could a litle bit absorb the vibe and make valve seat mount cracking.This also happed on the valve shaft holder.if i use the harder material it may also crack and i dont see on alu bronze.i also hope there would be much more good material but this far alu bronze is best i thought.
I know it sound amaze but maybe when you visit my country,we are kind insane to pump moped bike performance.I also like performance fact.
Cheers,i believe you are an expert on engineering.I do deep salute for your knowledge.Thank you and best regards.
No,i dont feel someone disturb my sales...while i am happy to discuss and if i have low side on my product then i will do for perfection.=)
In spring case,This far i use Daytona PAD2000 which i believe it precise count as also use for most racer on my country.while this tachy is not attach on plug wire but from digital programable 24 point of curve tacho output,so in my oppinion this read precise or closest to precise.Yes on alu bronze valve seat.
On the otherside why i am using alu bronze,on my past research on development =) harder valve seat material may cause a litle bit cracking on valveseat mount (stock casting metal) it just can not hold the vibration.while alu bronze could a litle bit absorb the vibe and make valve seat mount cracking.This also happed on the valve shaft holder.if i use the harder material it may also crack and i dont see on alu bronze.i also hope there would be much more good material but this far alu bronze is best i thought.
I know it sound amaze but maybe when you visit my country,we are kind insane to pump moped bike performance.I also like performance fact.
Cheers,i believe you are an expert on engineering.I do deep salute for your knowledge.Thank you and best regards.
In my opinion, there is no such thing as 'the best' design. Engineer designs parts in compromise of many factors such as reliability, cost and many others. And will improve the design thru testing and feedback. Anyway, to be able to talk directly to the person who designs, manufactures and sells their own product is priceless. Anyway, goodluck with your business Mr Rockies. I might not buy your product but i really appreciate the discussion.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
@dehanz
Thank you encik dehanz,here is not just about selling but more about knowledge on engineering too.
I add some details above you might intersting.
@All & stroker
Correction for valve seat material,its phosphor bronze.not alu bronze.I just ask my mechchanic as we research many material lol.
Thank you encik dehanz,here is not just about selling but more about knowledge on engineering too.
I add some details above you might intersting.
@All & stroker
Correction for valve seat material,its phosphor bronze.not alu bronze.I just ask my mechchanic as we research many material lol.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
Thanks encik rudduan.....
wow i love discussions like these.
we learned a lot on engineering
show us more stuffs you have for T135 bro rockies
we learned a lot on engineering
show us more stuffs you have for T135 bro rockies
Mr.Rockies
New Member
@traxxas-modifier
Thanks bro,for more product will coming very soon after prtotype pass hard performance test.
@dehanz
I post the pic soon.the giant valve is only suitable for full race,specially drag purposes.
@CryptonX
I dont quite understand,if you mean the valve only.no it can not plug and play on stock 135.but if you mean the whole head i make,yes its plug and play.but please understand that big valve would need big supply of fuel either carb and it works more perfectly on large dia piston or medium,as our goal is gain horse power.
Thanks bro,for more product will coming very soon after prtotype pass hard performance test.
@dehanz
I post the pic soon.the giant valve is only suitable for full race,specially drag purposes.
@CryptonX
I dont quite understand,if you mean the valve only.no it can not plug and play on stock 135.but if you mean the whole head i make,yes its plug and play.but please understand that big valve would need big supply of fuel either carb and it works more perfectly on large dia piston or medium,as our goal is gain horse power.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
@CryptonX
The valve spring price usd 55 exclude shipment.this spring works very well this far and never float.very good investment i guarantee.
The valve spring price usd 55 exclude shipment.this spring works very well this far and never float.very good investment i guarantee.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
@CryptonX
I am affraid it can not be suitable on stock FI (fuel injection) as the stock ECU map can not supply this requirement,but if we could re map the ecu there would be works well.this far i havent found aftermarket ECU for 135.
I am affraid it can not be suitable on stock FI (fuel injection) as the stock ECU map can not supply this requirement,but if we could re map the ecu there would be works well.this far i havent found aftermarket ECU for 135.
Mr.Rockies
New Member
yes,i know.but stock FI mixture flow would not suificient to supply this kits as stock nozzle also low on preasure to supply.it may can works but not on maximum performance,i just want my buyer to satify on performance but it also depend on buyers requirement and demand.i would be more than happy to serve.
do you mean only the head? and use for 135cc?
do you mean only the head? and use for 135cc?
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