T135 Sprocket Table Combination Part 2
- Thread starter traxxas-modifier
- Start date
stuff: your item not complet yet.
Charge: who did this test?the 16/34 will the bike have pick up or slow at the start.i have enought power but not sure to play around with sporcket yet,any good advice?.I am intrested in this 16/34,any body can can tell me what will happend with my bike setting.
Charge: who did this test?the 16/34 will the bike have pick up or slow at the start.i have enought power but not sure to play around with sporcket yet,any good advice?.I am intrested in this 16/34,any body can can tell me what will happend with my bike setting.
also try 16front and 42 rear. its good acceleration
and almost same top speed.
vibration? the chain should not be the cause to vibrate.
try to investigate...[/quote]
for real bro..i thought its just acceleration ..plain acceleration...what is ur top speed with that sprocket..can explain
and almost same top speed.
vibration? the chain should not be the cause to vibrate.
try to investigate...[/quote]
for real bro..i thought its just acceleration ..plain acceleration...what is ur top speed with that sprocket..can explain
kirana:
These are purely theoretical values. 184kph is the potential of this sprocket combination. It is impossible for stock engine to reach that point. If you are serious with gear ratio modifications, please do a dyno for power and torque curve against RPM. After this, pls let me know what you use your bike for, is it aiming for top speed, 0 - 100kph drag, 400m drag or running on mountain crosses. Each situation will need a different sprocket combinations.
If you are interested to customize each of your gears, I can help u to compute a theoretical value so that each of your gear shift point falls within your modded power band. For stock engine, Yamaha engineers did their job well. Each gear shift will stay within the power band (9000rpm --> around 6000rpm).
Of course, theoretical values may not represent the results you expected in real world. I just think theoretical values are a good point to start with, and we can fine tune with less trial and errors
135lcSS:
If you can't understand sprocket, think of bicycle. When we use 1st gear, we feel the bicycle is light, but can't go fast. That's why the 'lighter' the sprocket combination (ratio number higher), the faster our bike can accelerate, but less top speed we could achieve.
42/16 has almost the same top speed as 39/15, because 42/16 = 2.626, while 39/15 = 2.600. The acceleration and top speed difference is really minimal.
Gearing concept is easy. It transforms the horsepower from engine to torque on wheel. Each gear amplifies the engine power differently, depending on their ratio. 1st gear amplified the most, while 4th gear amplified the least. The final gear ratio is the "global" translator.
These are purely theoretical values. 184kph is the potential of this sprocket combination. It is impossible for stock engine to reach that point. If you are serious with gear ratio modifications, please do a dyno for power and torque curve against RPM. After this, pls let me know what you use your bike for, is it aiming for top speed, 0 - 100kph drag, 400m drag or running on mountain crosses. Each situation will need a different sprocket combinations.
If you are interested to customize each of your gears, I can help u to compute a theoretical value so that each of your gear shift point falls within your modded power band. For stock engine, Yamaha engineers did their job well. Each gear shift will stay within the power band (9000rpm --> around 6000rpm).
Of course, theoretical values may not represent the results you expected in real world. I just think theoretical values are a good point to start with, and we can fine tune with less trial and errors
135lcSS:
If you can't understand sprocket, think of bicycle. When we use 1st gear, we feel the bicycle is light, but can't go fast. That's why the 'lighter' the sprocket combination (ratio number higher), the faster our bike can accelerate, but less top speed we could achieve.
42/16 has almost the same top speed as 39/15, because 42/16 = 2.626, while 39/15 = 2.600. The acceleration and top speed difference is really minimal.
Gearing concept is easy. It transforms the horsepower from engine to torque on wheel. Each gear amplifies the engine power differently, depending on their ratio. 1st gear amplified the most, while 4th gear amplified the least. The final gear ratio is the "global" translator.
block/piston set is 60mm.stronger valve spring.racing camshaft.uma racing cab,4rd gear 21.K&N airfilter,15/38 sporcket. now 3 gear is already 180. top speed is ???? more. on Honda Civic metr is 168Kmh. just playing around not for racing or drag just normal daily use. and i never race. if other people want to race i just back down hehe,just some time i just overtake them for 1min then let them go back,hehehhe just playing.l
damn Kirana, I've calculated your sprocket combo and your 3rd gear made the engine revs up to 14,000rpm at 180kph!!!! That's freaking crazy lol.kirana said:
Hmm... please let me know the top speed you desired. Let's say you wanna limit the top speed to 200kph only at 4th gear, then you can have much much greater acceleration man (esp 0 - 100kph).
I think your engine is more powerful than a stock 125Z. Vixion 150cc is around 15BHP @ 8,500rpm, but yours can reach up to 14,000rpm and your bore size is bigger than Vixion!! I am pretty sure you have at least 20 horses (more than CBR150
).oh well, maybe you can try this 42-15. Below is the rough calculation at 14,000rpm (stock tyre size)
1st : 60kph
2nd: 110kph
3rd: 160kph
4th: 217kph
If you choose 45-15:
1st: 55kph
2nd: 102kph
3rd: 150kph
4th: 203kph
If you dont change (use back 38-15):
1st: 66kph
2nd: 122kph
3rd: 177kph
4th:240kph <-- this is crazy.
If you still use stock 135lc so better use 15/39 coz from JB to Jelapang Ipoh 15/38 is ok coz the road is smooth when up and downhill still can reach 140-160 and above but after Jelapang-BktGantang till Sg Petani 15/38 is not suitable 15/39 is okays...When you reach gurun till Bukit kayu hitam your topspeed will not same as you travel at south Malaysia..afterlife said:
I'm right did i....Hehe i told from my experience coz i'm already travel by My 135lc from Padang Besar Perlis till Johor..
Damansara till Kuantan...East Malaysia not travel yet 'Kelantan-Terengganu' so dont no about it
to charge, now my 1st gear 60(feel like exploding), 2nd-100(i tried only 3 times coz the engine so stressed up so i wont dare to try it again), 3rd-140, 4th-170(only once,i will not try to push it harder since i luv my bike n afraid the engine will blow up)---i know its quite hard to belief but seriously im not joking.now hav to concentrate abt the safety of the bike not pushin it harder. ...my max tat i will travel on the plus highway is 140(for 10 secs den down to 110, for safety reasons)
...my max tat i will travel on the plus highway is 140(for 10 secs den down to 110, for safety reasons)thanx tsunami for ur advice.i heard alot from experiance riders tat the highway in perak gonna be very dangerous..uphill downhill is it? many accidents there. "Jelapang-BktGantang till Sg Petani 15/38 is not suitable"-y bro? i dun really understand. but 15/39(standard) wont be too stress for the bike to hold long distance? anyways,i will stop(1 nite) at kuala kangsar perak for sum rest n meet up wif sum of my family members.so hard to learn abt sprockets ratios..u all r expert so hav to ask ard.thanx~
hehe, your speedometer got error like malaysia one? If no error, 2nd gear 100kph is awesome man, hahaha. Pls lemme know the error (if exist), need it for estimationafterlife said:to charge, now my 1st gear 60(feel like exploding), 2nd-100(i tried only 3 times coz the engine so stressed up so i wont dare to try it again), 3rd-140, 4th-170(only once,i will not try to push it harder since i luv my bike n afraid the engine will blow up)---i know its quite hard to belief but seriously im not joking.now hav to concentrate abt the safety of the bike not pushin it harder.
oic...if you feel smooth when use 15/38 nevermine to you use it. 15/39 not make our 135lc rev up but those rev sound always bare in our mine to tell us to slow down and fill some feul....Hehe....afterlife said:
Up to you man...If you fill Rm7 feul or full tank from K.K then you need to fill again when reach BktGantang or Bkt-Merah/AlorPongsu. 140kmh forsure need to fill feul after 100-120km travel if i'm not mistaken.
Next Station maybe Juru, Sp then Gurun....bla bla bla...Use 15/39 lar otherwise 2.6 ratios can save some feul than use 15/38 (2.53) coz your engine need more feul to accelerate till 140....'Dont pening² lah lagi byk crita lg pening..Sorry wrote in BM'
now my 1st gear 60(feel like exploding), 2nd-100(i tried only 3 times coz the engine so stressed up so i wont dare to try it again), 3rd-140, 4th-170(only once,i will not try to push it harder since i luv my bike n afraid the engine will blow up)---i know its quite hard to belief but seriously im not joking.now hav to concentrate abt the safety of the bike not pushin it harder. ...my max tat i will travel on the plus highway is 140(for 10 secs den down to 110, for safety reasons)
Your maxspeed to travel in Plus just 140kmh...so better use 15/39 coz you can gain more pick-up to acces acceleration till 140kmh than you use 15/38.
to charge: in sum ways i do feel our speedometers in s'pore r the same as urs in msia.if car drives 100kmh, my bike does feel like 90kmh uh coz i do drive alot n it feels different.i think all small bikes speedometer kinda "light" sumtimes.juz wat i think.
to tsunami:thanx bro.important advice for me.cant wait for the trip to happen.these few months im gonna test my bike around.thanx man~
to tsunami:thanx bro.important advice for me.cant wait for the trip to happen.these few months im gonna test my bike around.thanx man~