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Lc150 62mm Upgrade For Used Daily

Discussion in 'Modification' started by theo14, Nov 7, 2016.

  1. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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    Hi all,
    I'm trying to upgarde my bike to 62mm (175cc) with stock valve.
    Im using uma brand for cylinder kit.
    Now i want to help something.
    1. I'm using vixion valve spring for 12rpm limited is ok?
    2. What is the camshaft size? Camshaft brand can fit for daily used.
    3 what is the best of ECU.
    4. How about sprocket final?
    5. About spark plug, airfilter. Ignition coil.
    Top speed require about 15xkph.
    And all modifing can durable?
    Im ride 70km per day.
    Thank all.
    [​IMG]
     
    usin_kangkong likes this.
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  3. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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  4. asia crane

    asia crane New Member

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  5. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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    Any master of Fi can help me?
     
  6. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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    Hello, where are u?
     
  7. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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  8. theo14

    theo14 New Member

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  9. blackknightrealms

    blackknightrealms Super Veteran

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    Better talk to japspeed.im on stock right now.got tired or upgrading engine.hehehe.but you can talk with him as he upgraded and tested some option.he is using tuneboss and tried other ecu.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2016
  10. eldridge27

    eldridge27 New Member

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    pm me theo14
     
  11. usin_kangkong

    usin_kangkong New Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG][/url] [/IMG]
    Hello Mr. Theo,

    To answer your queries:

    1. Stock spring valve is touted to support till at least 11k RPM before the valve will float.
    Aftermarket racing spring valve is recommended, but, read the last paragraph.
    2. For daily usage, not for racing use, using a camshaft with a less aggressive cam profile is recommended, for example, stock cam. The thing with camshaft is, if you change it, you gain somewhere, and lose somewhere, unless your machine is of a very big cc with torque everywhere. Example, for stock T150 camshaft, peak torque will occur at 7k RPM while peak power will come out at 8.5k RPM. If you use racing camshaft, you may gain a bigger power gain, but it is shifted into a higher rpm zone, usually at around 10k RPM.
    Meaning, you will need to rev your bike more to get into the power-band. For racing? No problem, for daily use? You decide if you love to rev.

    3. Very subjective, I myself use our home-bred ECU called Tuneboss, very feature packed, with wireless Bluetooth connection for dashboard monitoring and tuning. You can tune with your own Android tablet, using Tuneboss Manager Pro, downloadable for free from Google Play. But as usual, for best result, you should send you machine to a professional tuner to get the best AFR(air-fuel ratio) and ignition timing setting for every throttle and RPM position. Link->http://tuneboss.co/
    4. Final drive ratio is more of a self preference, and will usually depend on your riding style and your machine capability of course. I myself is still using a stock ratio of 3.0. But 15-42 or 15-43 is liked by many.
    5. Use a standard spark plug and ignition coil, changing it will only affect like 0.5% of the total performance, no point. While for air filter, any racing air filter will do, more airflow, and money saving in the long run, due to it being washable, thus reusable.

    You can easily achieve 150+ kph gps reading with this setup:
    1. Uma 62mm block (62 instead of 65mm for longevity reason, daily use right?)
    2. Uma Superhead 20/23 (An original head with a port and polished intake and exhaust port will do as well, normally come in 19/22 size, CMS and BRT brand are famous)
    3. 160cc injector
    4. 32mm Throttle body
    5. Tuneboss ECU (or any other brand you like)
    6.1 Optional (high-lift camshaft)(I myself prefer to get into the powerband early, thus using stock cam, reason below)
    6.2 Racing spring valve(to support very high rpm if racing cam is used)
    7. Free-flow exhaust.
    8. Dyno tuning is a must for optimum AFR and ignition setup.

    With an average luck, from the above setting, you may expect for an estimated power of around: 24-26HP and 18-20Nm torque

    For your question of durability, anything beyond factory setting would greatly increased the parts wear and tear. But there is something that you can do to mitigate this thing.
    1. Change engine oil every 1000km. Using a cheap EO is alright, as long as it is a genuine one, not a fake/look-alike one. Why so early? The increased CC put a very great pressure to our 1 litre of shared-sum oil case, transmission and engine share the same oil. The engine oil will lose it lubricating property very early due to the increased stress of the increased CC. 175-200cc, but still using 1 litre of EO. What to do.
    2. Not riding at a very high RPM often. Try to ride below 10k RPM?
    Higher RPM will exert more stress and pressure to the engine. You want a durable setup with an almost stock like engine longevity, try to use a setup with a not so high RPM needed one. Thus the use of stock cam or FZ/R15 cam, peak power @8500 RPM.

    But for most people, it is a waste. We can actually squeezed more performance for any given setup at a higher rpm by using a race cam, even on stock engine. For example, for a stock T150 engine, they make power of 15HP which is achieved at 8500RPM, you go any higher, aka over-rev, you may go faster, but the power output from the machine actually decrease, look at the dyno graph. But, by changing into a racing cam only, all other at stock, you can maybe get around 16hp or more, but that power only come out, at maybe around 10-11k RPM, while you would lose power and torque at lower rpm range, give somewhere, lose somewhere, remember?

    All in all, it is all up to you, modification can be fun, but sometime you also want a peace of mind. Just find a reputable tuning house, pay maybe like 50% more labour and parts cost, but they may have a RnD certified tuning package which you don't need to think much, plug and race.

    Any question please ask.

    Cheers :)

    edited to fix typos add missing part and power estimation quote*
    p/s: btw, all of the quoted power are taken at crank, not at the rear wheel, so it is easier to compare with the Factory quoted one, in which for marketing purpose are always taken at the crank. Bigger number looks more interesting and more marketable right? Converting into a real world, that number maybe 15% lower.


    https://postimg.org/image/eim1yqqmd/][​IMG][/url]
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  12. richardyusan

    richardyusan New Member

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    Using vixion valve spring is good, it can handle floating up to 13,500 rpm

    I recommend uma cam for daily use, don't use vixion cam, it's sucks at high rpm
     
  13. prettyboy

    prettyboy Super Veteran

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    up mga mamaw :shag:
     
  14. Jackocc

    Jackocc New Member

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    but if go with UMA superhead and 62 block , it will come with the racing cam with package .
     

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  15. Wpt - Kcy

    Wpt - Kcy Veteran

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    Can you suggest a very minimum spec that can be used for daily ride
     
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  16. usin_kangkong

    usin_kangkong New Member

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    Any spec can be used daily, just depends on your budget and what do you expect from the bike.
     
  17. Wpt - Kcy

    Wpt - Kcy Veteran

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    thank you, thinking about 60mm instead of 62mm, due to reliability
     
  18. Jackocc

    Jackocc New Member

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    yesterday just install UMA 65mm with highcam ...
    the pickup is much more increase ...
     
  19. Jackocc

    Jackocc New Member

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    this bike is look cool, but why dont add on footrest??


    now a days seldom see people put footrest on road riding. is it because scare of police blocking ??
     
  20. prettyboy

    prettyboy Super Veteran

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    up mga ka-puto :shag::coffee:
     
  21. ike

    ike Member

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    how about sir doing squishband do it and power to the bike
     

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