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Engine oil. . .

Zulu

New Member
It's not the brand. It's the model of the oil. As long as you buy the top of the line model(synthetic) it will give you better protection than the cheaper models. It has additives that will protect your engine, lower temperature and better mileage.
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
It's not the brand. It's the model of the oil. As long as you buy the top of the line model(synthetic) it will give you better protection than the cheaper models. It has additives that will protect your engine, lower temperature and better mileage.
My spec is 62mm semidome lightened, SpecV 6.5/cms 5.8, 32mm TB, 12holes injector, 20-22 head ported, hypeclutch, faito bearing, faito coil, iridium sp, Tuneboss and 22,000+ mileage

that is why I can see the difference of the oil I used.

I made more than 30maps to tune it smoothly by long drive (400km+ each ride) and using different sparklugs, I can feel my engine man.
 

Zulu

New Member
Better oil is always better regardless of what engine you put it in. There is no engine oil for specific engine modification. If performance difference is very noticeable, then why are there still a lot of brands available? Why do companies have several models with different prices? It's the additives they put on their product that increases the price. And these additives improve the quality of the oil.
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
Better oil is always better regardless of what engine you put it in. There is no engine oil for specific engine modification. If performance difference is very noticeable, then why are there still a lot of brands available? Why do companies have several models with different prices? It's the additives they put on their product that increases the price. And these additives improve the quality of the oil.
yes you are right,
yamalube new = 245
Power 1 = 260
Shell Advance = 300/350(not sure, i forgot)
Motul 3000 = 400

thats why maybe the last oil i used satisfed me, and have no plan to buy more than 500pesos oil, cuz im changing every 1000km
 

Zulu

New Member
My spec is 62mm semidome lightened, SpecV 6.5/cms 5.8, 32mm TB, 12holes injector, 20-22 head ported, hypeclutch, faito bearing, faito coil, iridium sp, Tuneboss and 22,000+ mileage

that is why I can see the difference of the oil I used.

I made more than 30maps to tune it smoothly by long drive (400km+ each ride) and using different sparklugs, I can feel my engine man.
Btw, why did you not use full dome? It will give you higher compression and more power. Who ported your head? Porting without proper knowledge will lead to poor performance. Porting is not as simple as making the head shiny or bigger.
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
Btw, why did you not use full dome? It will give you higher compression and more power. Who ported your head? Porting without proper knowledge will lead to poor performance. Porting is not as simple as making the head shiny or bigger.
it is for daily used, Mikki Torres do the convertion and headworks and lightened the piston

only exhaust is shiny, the intake is I dont know what it's called, but like hairlines scratch
 

Zulu

New Member
it is for daily used, Mikki Torres do the convertion and headworks and lightened the piston

only exhaust is shiny, the intake is I dont know what it's called, but like hairlines scratch
That's correct, intake should be rough. Exhaust can be shiny. If for daily use, why the modifications? It's harder to start and less fuel efficiency. Better have two bikes. One for daily use and one for racing. Modified bikes will not last very long. They are built for speed and very expensive to maintain.
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
That's correct, intake should be rough. Exhaust can be shiny. If for daily use, why the modifications? It's harder to start and less fuel efficiency. Better have two bikes. One for daily use and one for racing. Modified bikes will not last very long. They are built for speed and very expensive to maintain.
I don't have kick starter since after 10days of my bike was purchased, Now I'm using SpecV Cam 6.5 without decompression pin, one click only for electric starter, no issue

I installed tuneboss and cms cam after 1month+ and after 5 months I installed 62m
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
I don't have kick starter since after 10days of my bike was purchased, Now I'm using SpecV Cam 6.5 without decompression pin, one click only for electric starter, no issue

I installed tuneboss and cms cam after 1month+ and after 5 months I installed 62m
only issue is the first time I installed 12holes injector, hard to start and rough run until I tuned it well. And also hard start becuz of pipe, only I discovered that pipe with to much carbon will make it realy hard to start for modified engine
 

Zulu

New Member
Very good read.

1. Stock spring valve is touted to support till at least 11k RPM before the valve will float.
Aftermarket racing spring valve is recommended, but, read the last paragraph.
2. For daily usage, not for racing use, using a camshaft with a less aggressive cam profile is recommended, for example, stock cam. The thing with camshaft is, if you change it, you gain somewhere, and lose somewhere, unless your machine is of a very big cc with torque everywhere. Example, for stock T150 camshaft, peak torque will occur at 7k RPM while peak power will come out at 8.5k RPM. If you use racing camshaft, you may gain a bigger power gain, but it is shifted into a higher rpm zone, usually at around 10k RPM.
Meaning, you will need to rev your bike more to get into the power-band. For racing? No problem, for daily use? You decide if you love to rev.

3. Very subjective, I myself use our home-bred ECU called Tuneboss, very feature packed, with wireless Bluetooth connection for dashboard monitoring and tuning. You can tune with your own Android tablet, using Tuneboss Manager Pro, downloadable for free from Google Play. But as usual, for best result, you should send you machine to a professional tuner to get the best AFR(air-fuel ratio) and ignition timing setting for every throttle and RPM position. Link->http://tuneboss.co/
4. Final drive ratio is more of a self preference, and will usually depend on your riding style and your machine capability of course. I myself is still using a stock ratio of 3.0. But 15-42 or 15-43 is liked by many.
5. Use a standard spark plug and ignition coil, changing it will only affect like 0.5% of the total performance, no point. While for air filter, any racing air filter will do, more airflow, and money saving in the long run, due to it being washable, thus reusable.

You can easily achieve 150+ kph gps reading with this setup:
1. Uma 62mm block (62 instead of 65mm for longevity reason, daily use right?)
2. Uma Superhead 20/23 (An original head with a port and polished intake and exhaust port will do as well, normally come in 19/22 size, CMS and BRT brand are famous)
3. 160cc injector
4. 32mm Throttle body
 

mxking035

Super Veteran
Very good read.

1. Stock spring valve is touted to support till at least 11k RPM before the valve will float.
Aftermarket racing spring valve is recommended, but, read the last paragraph.
2. For daily usage, not for racing use, using a camshaft with a less aggressive cam profile is recommended, for example, stock cam. The thing with camshaft is, if you change it, you gain somewhere, and lose somewhere, unless your machine is of a very big cc with torque everywhere. Example, for stock T150 camshaft, peak torque will occur at 7k RPM while peak power will come out at 8.5k RPM. If you use racing camshaft, you may gain a bigger power gain, but it is shifted into a higher rpm zone, usually at around 10k RPM.
Meaning, you will need to rev your bike more to get into the power-band. For racing? No problem, for daily use? You decide if you love to rev.

3. Very subjective, I myself use our home-bred ECU called Tuneboss, very feature packed, with wireless Bluetooth connection for dashboard monitoring and tuning. You can tune with your own Android tablet, using Tuneboss Manager Pro, downloadable for free from Google Play. But as usual, for best result, you should send you machine to a professional tuner to get the best AFR(air-fuel ratio) and ignition timing setting for every throttle and RPM position. Link->http://tuneboss.co/
4. Final drive ratio is more of a self preference, and will usually depend on your riding style and your machine capability of course. I myself is still using a stock ratio of 3.0. But 15-42 or 15-43 is liked by many.
5. Use a standard spark plug and ignition coil, changing it will only affect like 0.5% of the total performance, no point. While for air filter, any racing air filter will do, more airflow, and money saving in the long run, due to it being washable, thus reusable.

You can easily achieve 150+ kph gps reading with this setup:
1. Uma 62mm block (62 instead of 65mm for longevity reason, daily use right?)
2. Uma Superhead 20/23 (An original head with a port and polished intake and exhaust port will do as well, normally come in 19/22 size, CMS and BRT brand are famous)
3. 160cc injector
4. 32mm Throttle body
thats right, correction for stack valve spring is 13.1k rpm limit, Im using UMA VSpring now
I also used big surplus Multicab Coil for more than 1 year (realy good coil but sadly damaged and can't find same coil) I boughy new multicab coil and after 2month I removed it and used the stack, then now to faito coil
My combi is 42/15 better than 42/14 for my mods, did not try yet for 43/15

for sparkplug
CPR8EA-9 is better for daily use than stack CR8E
but CR8E is better for long drive than CPR8EA-9
not yet observed well which is better that iridium and CR8E for drag, but for sure CR8E is good for spark advance at higher rpm in my experience
 

meonk moi

New Member
guyz wat engine oil do u use or preferred 2 use in our t135 m0ped?

-yamalube perf0rmance
-shell vsx
-castrol power1
-petr0n sprint
-motul
-elf
-others

f ders other brand of oil u use pls menti0n and give us d benefits,g0odness and advantages of dat oil 2 our m0ped. . .

for standart engine use yamalube king
 
yes you are right,
yamalube new = 245
Power 1 = 260
Shell Advance = 300/350(not sure, i forgot)
Motul 3000 = 400

thats why maybe the last oil i used satisfed me, and have no plan to buy more than 500pesos oil, cuz im changing every 1000km
Sir mxking which motul 3000 grade you are using? 15-50w or 20-50w? Thanks
 
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